Rosa Coat

Dries Van Noten — SS22 Rosa Coat

A frayed viscose crepe in bottle green, cut loose and cocooning, dropped shoulders, notched lapels, a silhouette that doesn’t ask much of whoever’s wearing it. The fraying is deliberate, woven into the structure of the fabric rather than worn into it over time. Up close it reads almost shaggy. The colour shifts between forest and teal depending on the light.

The Rosa coat is from Dries Van Noten’s SS22 collection, presented at the tail end of the pandemic when the Antwerp house was deliberately moving away from restraint. Van Noten described the season simply: “clothes to go and have fun in.” Texture was the main tool, the collection leaned on fil-coupés, smocking, fraying, fabrics that moved and caught light. This coat fits squarely into that thinking.

Van Noten has been making clothes on his own terms since 1986, and his house remains one of the few at this level with no outside investment and no licensing agreements. That independence shows in how he works: fabric first, always.