The houses
The houses.
Ten houses, and what makes each one worth the search.
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo treats pattern-cutting like an argument. The pieces that win it are worth keeping.
Rick Owens
The early Paris years, before the silhouette settled into a uniform.
Yohji Yamamoto
Volume with intent. A Yohji shoulder still falls like nothing else.
Maison Margiela
Deconstruction only works when the construction underneath was sound. His was.
Helmut Lang
Vienna minimalism in 90s New York, utility hardware and all. Still reads as modern.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Structure in places most tailoring goes soft. Decades on, it still holds that shape.
Prada
Miuccia made beauty out of fabrics the industry called ugly. The nylon proved her right.
Burberry
The gabardine still does its actual job: keeps the rain out.
Chloé
Soft tailoring, cut close enough to still move like a dress.
Undercover
Jun Takahashi's punk instincts, filtered through a pattern-maker's discipline.