15 held · 08 sought
The houses.
Every trail ends at a house. Follow one.
- Room IBalenciagaParis, 1937Founded in San Sebastián, moved to Paris in 1937. Under Demna, the house took on the street.01 piece kept

- Room IIIChloéParis, 1952Soft tailoring, cut close enough to still move like a dress.01 piece kept

- Room VDolce & GabbanaMilan, 1985Sicilian corsetry and sharp black tailoring, cut in Milan.04 pieces kept



- Room VIIGucciFlorence, 1921Florentine leatherwork underneath every era of the house.02 pieces kept


- Room IXJean Paul GaultierParis, 1976Structure in places most tailoring goes soft. Decades on, it still holds that shape.03 pieces kept



- Room XIPradaMilan, 1913Miuccia made beauty out of fabrics the industry called ugly. The nylon proved her right.02 pieces kept


- Room XIIIRoberto CavalliFlorence, 1970He patented a way to print on leather in the 1970s. Print stayed the whole argument after that.01 piece kept

- Room XVTom FordNew York, 2005After Gucci and YSL, his own house: made-to-measure suiting, cut close.01 piece kept

- Room IIBurberryBasingstoke, 1856The gabardine still does its actual job: keeps the rain out.02 pieces kept


- Room IVComme des GarçonsTokyo, 1969Rei Kawakubo treats pattern-cutting like an argument. The pieces that win it are worth keeping.02 pieces kept


- Room VIDries Van NotenAntwerp, 1986Print and colour handled like tailoring, never like decoration.01 piece kept

- Room VIIIGucci by Tom FordMilan, 1994 to 2004Ford made Gucci dangerous, and the cut did most of the work.01 piece kept

- Room XMaison MargielaParis, 1988Deconstruction only works when the construction underneath was sound. His was.01 piece kept

- Room XIIRick OwensLos Angeles, 1994Started in Los Angeles, moved to Paris in 2003. Drape with the weight of stone.01 piece kept

- Room XIVThierry MuglerParis, 1973Shoulders built like architecture, a waist cut to the millimetre.01 piece kept

What we are hunting.
Ask for a piece from one of these houses, or sell us one.
- Room XVIRaf SimonsAntwerp, 1995Trained as an industrial designer, never in fashion. Menswear from 1995, cut for the kids in the crowd.Sought
- Room XVIIINumber (N)ineTokyo, 1997 to 2009Takahiro Miyashita named it after a Beatles track, Revolution 9, and closed it with the autumn 2009 season, A Closed Feeling.Sought
- Room XXYohji YamamotoTokyo, 1972Volume with intent. A Yohji shoulder still falls like nothing else.Sought
- Room XXIICarol Christian PoellMilan, 1995Leather dipped, drowned and rebuilt by hand. Rarely seen, never by accident.Sought
- Room XVIIGuidiPescia, 1896A Tuscan tannery turned bootmaker: horse leather, assembled undyed, then drummed in dye as a finished boot.Sought
- Room XIXHelmut LangVienna, 1977 to 2005Vienna minimalism in 90s New York, utility hardware and all. Still reads as modern.Sought
- Room XXIUndercoverTokyo, 1990Jun Takahashi's punk instincts, filtered through a pattern-maker's discipline.Sought
- Room XXIIIAnn DemeulemeesterAntwerp, 1985One of the Antwerp Six. A near-monochrome line, shown in Paris since 1992.Sought