AD1992 Jacket

One of the stranger tailored jackets to come out of early-90s Comme des Garçons.

An elaborate botanical jacquard, reminiscent of antique European damask and upholstery, runs across the body, interrupted by broad tonal panels and sharply contrasting pinstriped wool. The wool continues into the lower body, breaking the conventional jacket hem into an irregular, scalloped silhouette. Something ornamental and almost historical is forced into the vocabulary of formal menswear, then taken apart and reconstructed.

The jacket belongs to the remarkable early-90s body of work surrounding Kawakubo’s “Lilith” and “Ultra-simple” era, when conventional tailoring, historical textiles and deliberate distortion became recurring elements of the Comme des Garçons language.

This is an original AD1992 Comme des Garçons mainline garment from the period itself. A particularly strong example of Kawakubo taking something familiar like the tailored jacket and making it fundamentally unfamiliar.